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Official Recommender: SF Weekly's Best of San Francisco 2008

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The big metropolis has been the setting for a variety of comics over the ages, from superhero drama (like Gotham City in Batman) to underground satire (like, uh, some hippie-infested city in The Fabulous Furry Freak Brothers). We live in one of America's quirkiest — and most magnificent — metropolises. We have a vibrant nightlife featuring drag queens with names like Suppositori Spelling, and a unionized strip club. We have amazing bars with dueling piano competitions. We have enough culture to satisfy snobs (opera, anyone?) and kitsch lovers (personalized piñatas, anyone?). Sure, we also have Danielle Steel, but that isn't our fault. The point is that a bustling city like ours has all kinds: heroes, freaks, and heroic freaks. It's practically impossible to capture all the city's finer points (and characters) in one newspaper, but we're going to try in our 13th annual Best of San Francisco issue. This year, we're honoring the city we love by making it the backdrop for some of our favorite comic-book styles. Hope you enjoy it.

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Sodini's Green Valley Rstrnt, San Francisco, CA - Sodini's Green Valley Rstrnt, restaurants - Sodini's Green Valley Rstrnt, San Francisco, California

Sodini's Green Valley Rstrnt

San Francisco, CA
Best Old-Style Italian

When you're feeling sentimental for an old-style Italian restaurant, quit reminiscing and get to Sodini's Green Valley Restaurant in North Beach. The ambiance you long for includes the requisite checkered tablecloths and candles stuffed in old wine bottles. There's a cozy bar area, where locals often stop in for a quick glass of wine and a bit of gossip with the bartenders, who seem to know everything going on in the neighborhood. It's also not unusual to see politicos or poets having a drink and acting as if they don't know one another. The menu offers generous portions of excellent pastas, including delicious tortellinis. For an appetizer, try the penne con gamberi in cream sauce; if you're looking for an old-style protein hit, try the pepper steak.

Perbacco, San Francisco, CA - Perbacco, restaurants - Perbacco, San Francisco, California

Perbacco

San Francisco, CA
Best High-End Italian

San Francisco is blessed with many excellent Italian restaurants (several of the best have opened in the past couple of years). They include neighborhood pizzerias, osterias, and trattorias. But for alta cucina, the full-on, high-end experience in a posh place offering everything from soup (minestra) to nocce (frutta secca), the ristorante of choice is Perbacco. The glamorous, two-story space can be noisy, but the extraordinarily exciting food, focusing on the Piemonte and Ligurian regions, will rivet your attention. Everything on the extensive menus meets the same high standards: sparkling crudo (raw fish), unusual house-cured salumi, interesting appetizers (including vitello tonnato and fritto misto), soups, pastas, risottos, seasonal main courses, luscious desserts (chestnut Montebianco is a standout), and Italian cheeses. If somebody offers to take you out for a meal anywhere you'd like, Perbacco should be high on your list.

Serpentine, San Francisco, CA - Serpentine, restaurants - Serpentine, San Francisco, California

Serpentine

San Francisco, CA
Best Lemon Tart

We're suckers for lemon meringue pie. The combination of flaky pastry, smooth tart filling, and airy topping, if done right, never fails to thrill us. (Sometimes we like it even if it's done wrong.) But Serpentine's Meyer lemon tart with toasted marshmallow and blood-orange sections thrilled us as never before. That's because we've never had a lemon meringue pie that threatened to float off its plate and disappear into the stratosphere. It looks like a farmhouse pie made to finish a dollhouse feast: a thin, fragile pastry round layered with sweet-tart lemon curd and crisscrossed with a lattice of carefully browned marshmallow meringue. Here's a sweet that deserves the cliche: it melts in your mouth.

Firenze By Night Ristorante, San Francisco, CA - Firenze By Night Ristorante, restaurants, bars - Firenze By Night Ristorante, San Francisco, California

Firenze By Night Ristorante

San Francisco, CA
Best Pasta Chef

Genuine Tuscan cuisine is hard to find despite all the restaurants in town that promote the authenticity of their menus. But award-winning chef Sergio Giusti, the owner of Firenze by Night, produces the real thing. He is best known for his gnocchi, which have been called "the delectable dumplings of death." Another favorite is his pappardelle Toscana, which he prepares with a delicious rabbit sauce. Giusti's mother was raised in the rugged hills of Maremma in southern Tuscany, where the wild boar (chinghalle) are plentiful and the locals are world experts in the preparation of its lean, flavorful meat. Ask your waiter if by chance Giusti has some pappardelle with chinghalle sauce available in the kitchen, which he does on rare occasions. You won't regret it.

Italian French Baking Co, San Francisco, CA - Italian French Baking Co, shopping, restaurants - Italian French Baking Co, San Francisco, California

Italian French Baking Co

San Francisco, CA
Best Macaroon

The essence of the macaroon is its dense, pleasantly coarse texture, a gustatory earthiness achieved by forsaking the affectations of finely milled flour for pestled almonds or hazelnuts or some other palatable pseudostarch. Barely leavened with sugar and egg white and baked in a slow oven, it's one deceptively simple übercookie. At the Italian French Bakery in North Beach, the macaroon attains a lush majesty that belies its prosaic ingredients. Here the filler of choice is flaky coconut meat, and the sweet, tropical pleasures of the flesh combined with a blissfully excessive cloak of rich, dark bittersweet chocolate result in a thick and chewy confection that maintains its moist freshness for the three or four days it takes to consume the thing.